Climbing Geraltha: A Personal Journey of Fear, Strength, and Spiritual Discovery
Climbing Geraltha had been a dream. But just days before the trip, as I sat in the Goethe Institute library on July 9th, emotions flooded in. I was excited to see the ancient rock-hewn churches of Tigray. Still, nervous thoughts crept in: Am I strong enough? Is climbing Geraltha really doable for me?
The excitement of immersing myself in new cultures and landscapes was powerful but so was my anxiety. Doubts about fitness, altitude, and slippery cliffs filled my mind. It didn’t help that the climb had a reputation for being one of the most daring in Ethiopia.
When I reached out to fellow traveler Helina Taffes, she reassured me: “It’s not as scary as it looks totally doable with the guide.” Her words sparked a sense of calm and courage in me. I decided I would face my fear. I was climbing Geraltha no matter what.
The Road to Geraltha: From Axum to the Base
We began in Axum an ancient city still healing from recent conflict. Our warm welcome, comfortable stay, and a visit to the sacred Church of St. Mary of Zion grounded me in Ethiopia’s rich spiritual history.
By Friday, the team debated whether to climb early to avoid rain in Hawzen. The consensus? We’d aim for 8:30 a.m. but true to travel life, we left closer to 9:30. The journey from Axum to Geralta was scenic and steeped in history, passing Adwa and market towns. After three hours, we reached Hawzen, then a short drive brought us to the mountain's base.
Climbing Geraltha: Facing the Challenge
Our group fueled up with bananas and bread a nostalgic moment from childhood. The first 10 minutes were manageable. I stayed up front to stay motivated. But as we gained elevation, my heart pounded, and I had to pause often.
At a ledge halfway up, we caught our breath under an olive tree. Despite the sweeping views and historical insights, I could only think: Can I finish climbing Geraltha?
The final ascent tested every part of me. With harnesses secured and prayers whispered, we tackled vertical inclines and narrow ledges. I divided the climb into mental checkpoints. That helped. When I reached a crux point, watching Rahel climb ahead gave me the spark I needed.
I kept going step by shaky step.
Reaching the Summit: Spiritual Fulfillment
Inside a quiet cave near the top, we found a priest resting in white netela cloth. The peace in that space gave me renewed strength. Finally, we arrived at the rock-hewn church of Abune Yemata Guh. The view from the summit was breathtaking. I had done it. Climbing Geraltha was the hardest thing I’d ever done but also the most beautiful.
The Way Down: Reflection and Celebration
Descending was no easier. Thunder in the distance and steep paths challenged us again. But with help from Kes Hadush, a kind priest, I made it down safely.
At the bottom, Haftom surprised us with a barbecue and coffee ceremony. We ate tibs, sipped fresh buna, and shared stories. In that moment, surrounded by laughter and aroma, I knew: Climbing Geraltha had changed me.
Final Thoughts
Climbing Geraltha is more than a mountain adventure. It’s a personal challenge, a test of fear and faith, and a journey into Ethiopia’s soul. Whether you’re drawn by the thrill, the spiritual legacy, or the breathtaking views climbing Geraltha will stay with you long after the descent.
#ClimbingGeraltha #EthiopiaTravel #TigrayMountains #AbuneYemataGuh #AdventureInEthiopia #SpiritualTravel #HabeshaWonder #AfricanAdventure #SoloTravelAfrica #RockHewnChurches #TravelMemoir
